I landed in İstanbul at 2 am on a hot august morning. Exiting the airport I was greeted by taxi drivers pulling me every which way. Heading into the city I was overwhelmed by it’s sprawling urban scape and liveliness. I already knew 3 days was not going to be enough.
İstanbul ended up being my favourite place in Turkey. Unlike other places I visited, it was easy to find areas that felt authentic and non-touristy.
Following is a guide to the ins and outs of istanbul, including links to cafés, museums, bars and more! Enjoy.
where to stay
There are three key areas to stay in istanbul as a tourist: Sultanhamet, Contemporary istanbul and the Asian side. Each have their benefits and downfalls depending on what you’re interested in!
The following reviews are not exhaustive. I only stayed in Sultanhamet and Contemporary Istanbul but visited the Asian side so keep this in mind when reading.
sultanhamet
Sultanhamet is the centre of İstanbul’s historical life and is therefore the city’s key touristic area. Here, you are in walking distance of all the key historical sites including Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, The Grand Bazaar and the Cistern.
For travellers keen on history and a little bit of bazaar shopping I would recommend this area. However, it is incredibly busy and less authentic than other parts of İstanbul given the extreme focus on tourism.
We stayed at this airbnb. It was well-located and clean. However, our experiences with Türkiye accomodation were better in hotels and hostels.
contemporary İstanbul
Contemporary İstanbul includes Taksim, Beyoğlu, Cihangir and Beşiktaş. This area was by far my favourite! If you’re looking for café, bar and restaurant culture this is the spot. It is in public transport distance to all the major attractions on the Sultanhamet side but has a bit more of a laid back feel.
Here, you’re more likely to find a traditional Turkish feed and experience contemporary İstanbul culture in this area than in Sultanhamet which is more catered towards the tourist palette. Additionally, things are open later in this area whereas things in Sultanhamet close much earlier.
I stayed at Chambers of the Boheme in Taksim square which was a lovely hostel and very well-located.
asian side
I only visited the Asian Side for one night. Similar to the contemporary side it had a great vibe with cool bars and cafés. However, it is a little further away from the key attractions. Whilst I highly recommend taking the ferry from the asian side it is just that tiny bit further that makes it less convenient to make a day trip to see everything you want to see!
what to do
the blue mosque and hagia sophia
The Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia are beautiful examples of islamic architecture. Located in Sultanhamet they are within walking distance of each other. Given I am not religious, my trips were fairly quick but definitely worth a visit.
Like all major tourist attractions, it is recommended to go early in the morning to beat the crowds. Also, be observant of the opening hours as both of these are functioning mosques so prayer times are usually closed to non-worshippers.
Please be respectful, this is a place of worship. Wear clothes that cover collarbones, elbows and knees and women must cover their hair.
museum of modern art
Located in Beyoğlu this museum has an extensive catalogue of comtemporary Turkish art. With an emphasis on female representation, the museum is well worth the visit. Avoid on Thursdays from 10.00 – 14.00 as it is free admission for Turkish residents and is therefore quite crowded. Find admission fees and more info here.
feriköy antika pazari
Great flea market on friday’s and sunday’s only a metro ride away from Taksim square. Located in a cool area with lots of cafés and restaurants.
whirling dervish
An essential experience in Turkey. An ancient Sufi ritual through which men twirl around in order to come closer to god. Highly recommend for anyone interested in sufi’ism or religion but maybe not for everyone. We went to the Hodjapasha Dervish which was a great experience albeit a little expensive.
turkish bath
A visit to the hamami (turkish bath) is an essential experience in Turkey. I had initially booked into a Hamam I found online as recommended for tourists. However, the Turkish manager of my hostel recommended the bath he frequents: sofular hamami. Not only was it significantly cheaper than others I had researched, it also ended up being the most authentic experience I had in Turkey.
I came out feeling completely refreshed and relaxed. Whilst I cannot recommend this enough it may not be for you if you’re uncomfortable being touched by strangers or naked in the presence of others. The baths are divided into male and female rooms so no worries about that but it is quite an intimate experience.
eat and drink
For byrek – a pastry commonly found in eastern europe and the middle east.
The coolest bar and club in beyoğlu
Garden terrace for drinks and food. We had a jug of their strawberry lemonade cocktail. A little tricky to find but once you find the sign on the street, go in the door and keep following the arrows.
⭑ hafiz mustafa
Baklava heaven. Multiple locations around the city.
Hole in the wall in Eminonu serving turkish breakfast and lunch food. I had the çorbasi (turkish lentil soup) which was amazing.
Mezze on the asian side. We had atom, butter beans, dolmade, stuffed capsicums and potato salad. All were super yummy and the service was lovely.
Traditional turkish breakfast food in Taksim Square. Try menemen (turkish scramble), kaymak (cream and honey), and fresh orange juice. All accompanied by a big baguette. Reasonably priced.
a little expensive but great if you’re looking for your Australian coffee fix. located behind the grand bazaar.
places i’ll be going next time
Mezze in taksim.
Cute coffee shop.
There are many more which you can check out in my istanbul google maps here ⭐
BAM BAM 
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